WHEN IS A BEER NOT A BEER?

You’ve gotta hand it to Jim Koch, founder of Samuel Adams Beer: The man knows how to market his stuff. Out today is a new batch of what Koch calls “Samuel Adams Utopias,” or Extreme Beers, just in time for the holidays. The stuff is described thusly: “Samuel Adams Utopias is a strong, rich, dark beer that is uncarbonated and is served not pint by frosty pint, but at room temperature in a two-ounce pour, to be savored like a vintage port or a fine cognac . . . the 2007 batch of Samuel Adams Utopias weighs in at 27% alcohol by volume. The average beer is about 5%.” Not to belabor the obvious, but Dude: That’s Booze! At 54 proof! Are we the only ones who see this? Still not convinced? They also add this: “The limited-edition brew will be available at select specialty beer and liquor stores for a suggested retail price of $120–$140 per bottle. Jim, nicely done. Beer. Meh.